Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Hvad er den pong? LINDA MURPHY undersøger den meget ondskabsfulde, misforståede men i nogle kvartaler værdsatte Brettanomyces verden.
I det første år af min vinkarriere hældte jeg vin på en visning af topflasker fra hele verden. På en pause fra standen gik jeg rundt i lokalet for at smage på mange af de andre tilbud.
Da jeg vendte tilbage til mit bord, spurgte vinproducenten ved siden af mig: 'Har noget virkelig imponeret dig?' 'Châteauneuf-du-Pape fra 1989 fra Château de Beaucastel,' svarede jeg. Han humrede: 'Du skal elske Brett.' Selvom jeg ikke vidste, hvad Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-ser) - var på det tidspunkt, elskede jeg Beaucastels jordede, læderagtige, røget bacon og krydderi-karakter , kødfuld frugt og fast struktur.
Jeg lærte senere, at Brett, en naturlig forekommende gær, der ikke er skadelig at forbruge, men alligevel kan gøre både gode og dårlige ting til aromaer og smag af vin, ville være et varmt emne blandt vinproducenter uden nogen klar vinder i debatten.
Vintners kalder det 'B-ordet', og i bedste fald kan Brettanomyces give vin, hvad mange mener er positive egenskaber, der tilføjer kompleksitet og dybde: jordiske smag af handskelæder, røget kød, baconfedt, tobak, trøffel, fed og andet salt krydderier.
Men når B bliver dårlig, kan det give vin den stødende stink af staldgård, gødning, plaster, våd hund, svedig hestetæppe, musemaling og antiseptisk middel. Af frygt for sidstnævnte gør mange vinproducenter rundt om i verden alt, hvad de kan for at forhindre Brett-forurening.
Andre opmuntrer lidt af det, for den ekstra ounce af interesse, men alligevel nødt til at arbejde hårdt, så den vilde gær ikke overvælder sortkarakter og frugtbarhed. Andre, lad os bare sige, at hvis renlighed er ved siden af gudfrygtighed, går nogle vinproducenter ikke i kirken. De, der hævder goût de terroir for deres ubehagelige aftapning, giver kun undskyldninger for uhygiejnisk praksis.
Ven eller fjende?
Der er flere stammer af - og teorier om - Brettanomyces, og en fuld diskussion kræver en mikrobiologisk afhandling. Simpelthen er der to vinændrende forbindelser identificeret med Brett: 4-ethyl guaiacol (4-fx), som bidrager med det, som mange tænker til bacon og krydderi og 4-ethylphenol 4-ep) med dets negative plaster. våd hund og medicinske egenskaber.
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Interessante Artikler
