Hun er ikke universelt elsket, og hendes vine er uden for de fleste af os, men Stephen Brook er i tryllebånd til den utrættelige Lalou Bize-Leroy
Lalou Bize-Leroy ser næppe anderledes ud, end hun gjorde, da hun plejede at komme til London i midten af 1980'erne for at præsentere vine fra Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, som hendes familie er medejer af. Hun har en let elfefigur med lyse blågrå øjne og hår, der nu er sølvblonde snarere end ren blond, hendes tøj er smarte, men undervurderede. Det er helt plausibelt at tænke på denne smidige, beskikkede figur som en dedikeret bjergbestiger - som hun har været i årtier. Indtil man holder pause for at overveje, at hun i hendes alder måske vil give det en pause. Men ikke lidt af det.
Bize-Leroy lever og ånder burgundersk terroir. Indtil 1988 var hendes største bekymring familiens ngo-selskab, Maison Leroy, som hun stadig driver, og holdt Meursault-kældre på lager med en million flasker fint Bourgogne. Hendes oldefar grundlagde det i 1868, men det var hendes far, der begyndte at opbygge lagrene af gamle vine fra 1919 og fremefter. ”Vi har stadig nogle flasker af den årgang til salg.” For ikke at nævne enhver stor årgang siden. 'Min fars hovedbeskæftigelse var at køre Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, så han kom aldrig til at sælge de vine, han købte.' Bize-Leroy kom til ham i 1955.
Sådan erfaring og perspektiv placerer hende i en formidabel position inden for Bourgognes hierarki. 'Jeg har ingen kontrakter med avlere og starter helt fra bunden hvert år. Hvis jeg kan lide en vin, køber jeg den. Hvis ikke, gør jeg det ikke. ’Med så enorme reserver at trække på føler hun sig ikke forpligtet til at købe hvert år.
Maison Leroy-vine er enormt dyre, men hun er fuldstændig stolt af dem. Hun smager rækkevidden ca. en gang om året og beslutter, hvad hun skal frigive, hvad hun skal opbevare. Ofte er de frigivne modne gamle årgange, hurtigt snappet op af samlere, især i USA og Japan. Hun ejer også den 4 hektar store Domaine d'Auvenay i St-Romain, som hendes mand Marcel Bize drev indtil sin død for et par år siden. Nu kører hun det alene. På trods af sin beskedne adresse har Auvenay et antal grands crus i sin portefølje, men mængderne er små, og køen til tildelinger er lang.
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Interessante Artikler
