1982, betragtet af mange som den største årgang i moderne tid, så USA
få sin smag for en primeur, og Bordelais opdager modenhed. Femogtyve
år efter at den blev smagt for første gang, går NICHOLAS TRO tilbage i tiden
1982, betragtet af mange som den største årgang i moderne tid, så USA få sin smag for en primeur, og Bordelais opdagede modenhed. Femogtyve år efter, at den først blev smagt, går Nicholas Faith tilbage i tiden.
Det 1982 årgang ville aldrig være en normal. For en start, som Christian Moueix (nu af Pétrus, dengang af hans familie négociant firma, JP Moueix) påpeger, 'Det var en perfekt sommer, ligesom dem fra 1989 og 2005'.
For Jean-Bernard Delmas, dengang leder Haut-Brion, 'Det var en lænestolsommer, varm og tør, så der var ingen sygdomme, ingen insekter, der bekymrede os'. Han overdrev ikke. Vinteren havde været mild, april var tør og solrig, og bortset fra et par spredte haglstorme, var maj lige så lovende. Juni og juli gav en fremragende, hvis meget varm, blanding af solskin og byger, mens august og begyndelsen af september med temperaturer på 30 ° C ikke gjorde noget for at beskadige druerne eller forhindre en tidlig høst - startende den 15. september, selv i det nordlige Médoc. Resultatet var Merlot af mere end 13% potentiel alkohol, endnu finere end Cabernet, som nåede mere end 12% - niveauer, der derefter ansås for bemærkelsesværdige.
Det var ikke den første sådan efterkrigstidsår. 1959 var dog potentielt lige så god
på grund af den dårlige kvalitet vinfremstilling på det tidspunkt, 'halvdelen af det endte som eddike', sagde Moueix. I 1982 var 'alt let'. For sin far, den legendariske Jean-Pierre, lignede Pétrus det år 1947, men med to store forskelle: ja det var 'koncentreret og magtfuldt', men det var 'mindre tæt' end dets forgænger. En næsten utrolig kommentar til mig i betragtning af at Pétrus fra 1982, jeg smagte tidligt i 1983, var den mest tætte, koncentrerede klaret, jeg nogensinde har haft.
Ikke desto mindre bemærker enhver kommentator, hvordan den perfekte balance mellem disse vine betyder, at de er, med ordene fra en poetisk ekspert 'som store mænd, der danser let'. Druerne kan have været modne og sommeren varm, men den var ikke så varm som i 1947, så der var intet tegn på den brændte smag, der markerede vinene. Alligevel krævede druer og varme ved høsttid korrekt køleudstyr, som kun nogle få godser havde. På Château Margaux var den normalt uforlignelige Emile Peynaud i panik og bekymrede sig for, at overskydende temperaturer i slottets gamle trækande ville stoppe gæringen. Han ringede til Corinne Mentzelopoulos og ledede godset efter hendes fars Andrés død
det foregående år og bad hende om at sanktionere købet af 20.000 £ kølepumper.
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- Se også: David Peppercorn's Bordeaux vintage rapport fra 1982 - 2005
- For mere om vinårsgange fra Bordeaux og over hele verden, se decanter.com 'S Vintage guider side. Skrevet af Nicholas Faith
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