Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca var runde skuffet over denne smagning i 2009, idet han citerede vinproducentens manglende evne til at adressere, hvor vanskelig årgangen var som en af grundene til denne 'dystre' visning.
'Få 2009'ere berettigede optimisme med hensyn til deres levetid, og de fleste producenter talte om 2009 som en årgang for nærtidsdrikning'
2009-årgangen af Barolo vil konfrontere forbrugere med nogle barske sandheder og nogle barske vine. Jeg smagte godt over 200 eksempler på Barolo 2009 på Nebbiolo Prima i Alba i maj. De fleste vine, der blev tilbudt i løbet af de fem dage af begivenheden, manglede ikke kun klassisk Nebbiolo-farve, men viste næsten ingen Nebbiolo-aromaer eller smag.
Jeg elsker Barolo, og jeg respekterer og beundrer mange af dets producenter for deres dedikation og klarheden i deres vision. Alligevel må jeg sige, at i denne årgang manglede ydeevnen for mange af dem ikke bare, det var trist.
Naturligvis var der undtagelser: flere producenter - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, for nogle - viste sig at være ganske drikkelige Barolo. Nogle få - især Pio Cesare og Massolino-Vigna Rionda - har endda tillid til deres vins aldringspotentiale. Denne udtalelse blev ofte gentaget af købmænd og købere, der smagte et udvalg af disse vine en uge tidligere end journalister og med producenterne (ikke blinde). Men til min gane - og ifølge mange journalister, jeg talte med - synes de fleste Barolo-producenter at have undervurderet sværhedsgraden ved denne årgang. Få 2009'ere begrundede optimisme med hensyn til deres levetid, og de fleste producenter talte om 2009 som en årgang for nærtidsdrikning.
Giacomo Conterno, fra vingården Aldo Conterno i kommunen Monforte, var en af de mere åbenlyse producenter. Han sagde: '2009 var en vinbunds årgang. I slutningen af august var nogle [Nebbiolo] vinstokke allerede næsten modne, og nogle var helt umodne - næsten 30 dages forskel mellem dem. Hvad du gjorde ved det, bestemte, hvilken slags vin du lavede. ’Den normalt upbeat Consorzio-vurdering af høsten i år er meget bevogtet:
'Årgangen 2009 vil også blive husket for sit uregelmæssige modningsmønster ... Med hensyn til teknologisk modning kan årgangen placeres mellem 2003 og 2007 ... Med hensyn til den fenoliske modning ... de data, der blev fundet i druerne, var sammenlignelige med 2003 ... i denne årgang blev resultaterne ikke altid forbedret ved at forsinke høsten. '
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Skrevet af Tom Maresca
Interessante Artikler
