Domaine Jean Grivot: Profil og vinbedømmelser - Winestealssd.com

Richebourg Grand Cru i Bourgogne Côte de Nuits. Kredit: Ian Shaw / Alamy

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Bourgogne-mester Clive Coates MW fortæller dig alt hvad du behøver at vide om Domaine Jean Grivot sammen med historiske smagsnoter om vine fra de bedste årgange - som en del af en serie, der ser tilbage på domæne-profiler fra Clives seneste bøger.

Jeg kan ikke lide halvflasker: dum størrelse. Ikke næsten nok til en - endsige to. Men af en eller anden grund ejede jeg halvdelen af Domaine Grivots Clos de Vougeot 1964 i Château Coates-kælderen. Til sidst åbnede jeg den i slutningen af en sprød middag. Min ven sagde, at hun ville tage et halvt glas op i seng med hende. Jeg var færdig med at vaske op og slappede af med resten. Den var lækker.

Men Etienne Grivot er uenig. Han blev født i 1959, og det faldt ham aldrig ind, at hans rolle i livet ikke var at følge sin far Jean ind i familiens domæne. Men da han voksede op og drak lejlighedsvis en flaske fra år som 1929 og 1937 og vine fra de store årgange umiddelbart efter anden verdenskrig, begyndte han at indse, at de vine, som Grivot-domænet producerede i 1960'erne og 1970'erne, var en skygge af deres tidligere selv.

Hvorfor? Fordi de overbefrugtede vinmarkerne, og som lærer demonstrerede over for Etienne, da han studerede i slutningen af 1970'erne (først en B.T. ( Teknisk patent ) i almindeligt landbrug og derefter en B.T.S. (overlegen) inden for vinavl og ønologi) blev jorden i Bourgogne i stigende grad ude af stand til at producere lokale vine , vine der havde den magiske karakter og smagskoncentration af hvor de kommer fra.

Find alle Clive Coates MWs Domaine Jean Grivot-smagsnoter her

Oprindelsen til familien Grivot ligger i den øvre del af floden Doubs, hundrede kilometer mod øst i Jura, men Grivots er blevet etableret i Bourgogne siden den franske revolution.

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Først boede de i Nuits-Saint-Georges, der dyrkede vinstokke i Arcenats i Hautes-Côtes og på Corgoloin, men opdrættede også andre afgrøder. En filial flyttede derefter til Vosne-Romanée, og langsomt men sikkert koncentrerede sig aktiviteterne på denne side af familien om vinproduktion.

Gaston Grivot, søn af Joseph og far til Jean, solgte sine vinstokke i disse mindre områder i 1919 for at købe et vigtigt stykke Clos Vougeot fra en M. Polack. Han var en af de første til at forfølge en ordentlig ønologisk grad ved Dijon universitet i 1920'erne.

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Og han havde fremsynet til at gifte sig med Madelaine, datter af Émile Grivot fra Nuits-Saint-Georges i 1927 - ingen nær forhold, men sikkert en fjern fætter - der bragte vinstokke i Pruliers og Roncières med hende som en medgift.

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