Champagne crus nyder godt af deres eksklusivitet, men de 17 grand cru vinmarker er stort set ukendte. GILES FALLOWFIELD spørger, hvad hver bringer til bordet, og hvorfor de ikke vises på etiketten.
Champagne har mange ligheder med Bourgogne, den nærmeste nabo til vingården. Champagne crus har druesorterne Pinot Noir og Chardonnay til fælles, og hvis du kan se ud over boblerne i Champagne, skal du producere vine med en lignende smagsprofil. Begge bruger det samme kvalitetsvurderingssystem, hvor de øverste vinmarker i hver betegnelse er betegnet som grand cru, og premier cru næste niveau ned.
Mens der i Bourgogne er udtrykkene grand og premier cru tydeligt skrevet på etiketterne på langt størstedelen af de vine, der er berettiget til at bruge dem, vises de ikke på mange flasker champagne. Hvorfor ikke? Dels fordi i den moderne æra domineres salg af champagnecrus af mærker som Moët & Chandon, Laurent-Perrier og Veuve Clicquot. Som et resultat er konceptet med grand cru Champagne ikke rigtig blevet udviklet. Men forbrugerne er mere tilbøjelige til at støde på disse vilkår i fremtiden.
Så hvad er grand cru Champagne, hvorfor sælges ikke flere vine som sådan? Og hvorfor er Champagnes bedste vinmarker ikke så kendt som Chambertin, Clos Vougeot og Le Montrachet?
I Champagne er alle 318 landsbyer kvalitetsvurderet i Echelle des Crus-systemet (bogstaveligt talt 'stigning af stigninger') og får en klassificeringsgrad mellem 100 og 80% (den laveste vurdering). Nogle 257 af disse vurderes et sted mellem 80 og 89. Et trin højere kommer de 44 premiers crus, som varierer i deres klassifikation fra 90 til 99. Top af bunken er de 17 grand cru landsbyer, der alle er bedømt 100% på Echelle des Crus.
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Interessante Artikler
