Spanske amforaer kendt som tinajas har overtaget fra barriques på Elisabetta Foradoris vingård i Trentino
- Højdepunkter
- Langlæst vinartikler
- Magasin: Maj 2018-udgave
Simon Woolf undersøger rapporter om en kontrarevolution i italienske vinkældre ...
Der er et kort, men dramatisk øjeblik i Paolo Casalis 'film fra 2014 Barolo Boys: Historien om en revolution når vinproducent Elio Altare tager motorsaven til en imponerende linje af botti (traditionelle store egetræsfade), der står i familiens kælder.
Hans rituelle ødelæggelse af disse ærværdige skibe, vedtaget i 1983, havde et praktisk formål - at skabe plads til nyindkøbte, mindre franske egetræsbarrikker. Men den potente symbolik var tydelig - den angiveligt fede, forfaldne botti repræsenterede den gamle orden. Linjer af perfekte, nyligt samarbejdede barrikker udsendte et klart budskab om modernitet og stil.
Rul ned for at se Woolfs udvalg af italienske vine fremstillet uden eg
Det, der syntes banebrydende i 1983, var blevet de rigueur for prestigefyldte italienske vingårde i slutningen af 1990'erne. Men for nylig er barrikens afgørende kærtegning faldet i unåde, fra Friuli i nordøst til Sicilien i syd og alle punkter imellem.
Italiens vinproducenter skifter i stigende grad til alternative materialer og beholdere til gæring og ældning, lige fra det uforståelige til det direkte.
Hvor barrikker engang stod, kunne der muligvis være amforaer, georgisk qvevris, betonæg eller store akacietønder. Er dette blot den cykliske slibning af modens løbebånd eller en del af en mere afgørende bevægelse mod større ægthed og udtryk?
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Woolfs smagsnoter og score for et udvalg af italienske vine fremstillet uden eg:
Interessante Artikler
