Terroir: sandheden - Winestealssd.com

Terroir er et af de buzz-ord, som alle i vinverdenen omfavner, men hvad betyder det egentlig? Og har det virkelig den virkning på vine, som producenterne hævder? Rupert Joy graver dybt for at finde ud af det

stemmen sæson 12 afsnit 21

Syd for Condrieu i det nordlige Rhône ligger den lille betegnelse Château-Grillet. Dens 3,4 hektar vinstokke på de stejle skråninger af et naturligt amfiteater producerer små mængder vin fra samme druesort og jord som den meget større nabo, Condrieu. Men det er blevet anerkendt siden 1936 som en separat AC og sælger for langt mere. Dens ejer, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, understreger, at originalen af vinen fremstillet af dens granitjord og den sydvendte eksponering er blevet anerkendt i århundreder. Men nogle af hendes naboer stiller spørgsmålstegn ved, om der er sådan en forskel mellem terræerne fra Château-Grillet og Condrieu.

Tanken om, at bestemte pletter producerer særligt gode vine, er ikke ny. Filosofen, John Locke, der besøgte Bordeaux i 1677, bemærkede Château Haut-Brions 'særlige i jorden', der adskiller den fra sine naboer. En bog af abbed Arnoux, udgivet i London i 1728, tilskrev Montrachets storhed i Bourgogne til en bestemt jordstribe på Côte d'Or.

Hvad der er et moderne fænomen er brugen af ordet 'terroir' til at beskrive ideen. Dens originale franske konnotationer var nedsættende. Indtil midten af det 20. århundrede betød en vin terroité en rustik, jordagtig vin med i bedste fald en slags yokel charme og i værste fald fejl. En vin med en goût de terroir (en smag af terroir) var en sjovt fremstillet vin, der smagte af umodne eller rådne druer. Idéen om terroir som en mere positiv egenskab dukkede først op til AC-systemets fødsel i 1930'erne.

Alle har sin egen definition af terroir. Det enkleste er måske den amerikanske vinforfatter Matt Kramer, der beskriver det som 'ensteds'. De fleste franske definitioner, inklusive INAO (det organ, der er ansvarlig for Frankrigs vekselstrømssystem), inkluderer fire nøgleelementer: et steds fysiske karakteristika (især jord og eksponering), dets klima, den anvendte druesort og menneskets rolle .

sarah på dage i vores liv

Få mennesker vil bestride den grundlæggende forudsætning, at vine får visse egenskaber fra det sted, hvor deres druer dyrkes, og at mennesket spiller en rolle i at udtrykke disse egenskaber. Men i betragtning af at næsten enhver vinproducent i disse dage hævder at producere vine, der respekterer terroir og hævder at tage en 'ikke-interventionistisk' tilgang, har forbrugeren al mulig grund til at undre sig over, hvad terroir betyder i praksis.

hvem vandt helvede køkken sæson 15

Rødderne til terroir

Måske fordi ordet ligner 'terræn', har vi tendens til primært at forbinde terroir med jord. Dette kan igen tilskynde opfattelsen af, at vine direkte får en smag fra jorden, hvor de dyrkes.

Et klassisk eksempel er Chablis, en af verdens mest genkendelige vine. På trods af at det er fremstillet af en allestedsnærværende druesort, er Chablis-udtrykket for Chardonnay ulig det fra nogen anden region. De mest ansete vine kommer fra blød kimmeridgisk kridtmel, der består af forhistoriske østersskaller.

Producenter og vinforfattere skaber ofte en forbindelse mellem vinens karakteristiske flintyodsmag og regionens geologi. 'Hvordan kan du ellers forklare de iodiserede noter i Chablis, hvis ikke ved sammensætningen af dens jord?' Spørger Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Du finder ikke denne smag i Chardonnays dyrket andetsteds.'

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